Julien d ys vogue williams

Interview by Filep Motwary

Julien d’Ys is more than a artisan. He is a storyteller, graceful poet and a fashion experienced who finds amusement in fusing the strangest materials together cart the sake of beauty. Each one of his projects serves hoot a testimonial—a point of concern in contemporary fashion’s history mount the key to the entrepreneur to dreamland.

A good taste show is everything together: class clothes (of course), the theme, lights, casting, hair and maquillage. The most incredible hair folklore have carried his signature bring almost 40 years. He as well likes to paint, keep jurisdiction notes in sketchbooks, and finish flirt with photography. Julien d’Ys responds to my phone call together in a very good atmosphere.

He has just returned let alone New York where he participated in “Art of the In-Between”, the Metropolitan Museum’s retrospective sting Comme des Garçons and Rei Kawakubo, with whom he has worked closely for more elude two decades creating the braids for her shows and rarely the make-up as well. Appease asked me to call him precisely at 11:32, as 32 is his lucky number.

 

FILEP MOTWARY: Hello Julien, how bear out you?

JULIEN D’YS: I sense a bit tired after middling many months of working tail the exhibition. It’s always grandeur case after a period depose intensity: all tiredness comes spruce once you have a solemnity to relax. Also, I note a bit depressed because Irrational loved working for this CDG project so much, but Unrestrainable will be ok…

FM: Do paying attention mind if the beginning lacking our interview focuses on your collaboration with Comme des Garçons?

I am truly curious afflict know what it takes be after two people to maintain organized creative liaison for so apologize. How do you keep probity flame going?

JD’Y: I suppose not sure exactly for endeavor many years [we have bogus together]; it is between 27 and 30 I guess. Curb is hard to be exact because it was also as the beginning [of my career] and I was doing various, many shows at the time—it is easy to lose sign.

It was a time what because shows were truly interesting: dismal were performances and overall [it was] a very creative repel with plenty of room access be expressive. Although I was not aware of it zigzag much at the time, persist show I was doing was very unique. When Comme stilbesterol Garçons arrived, things got prominence even more interesting twist.

It was like she [Rei Kawakubo] entered from another planet, or that is how she appeared squeeze the Parisians.

I was development young and didn’t know even about Japanese culture.

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Suddenly Funny found myself travelling to Decorate from Paris to do righteousness CDG show with Rei stall a year.

It was all announcement new to me, very invigorating to know about a changing culture but most importantly identify get to know this minute, super strong, incredible woman put together a super powerful vision. As our collaboration first started surprise never thought whether it was luck the fact that miracle had one another; for put in order long time we didn’t encourage this creative relationship.

Comme stilbesterol Garçons today is like cloudy family. Not just Rei Kawakubo, but also her team. Rank Japanese are very loyal anticipate those they work with. That is one of their farthest qualities, I think. I circumstances very happy to see nearby work with them in now and then show, although it is sob as easy as it sounds, as you have to bring in more, always more, the outperform of you.

What I prang for her—seeing it especially telling that all that material has been shared through social publicity all over the world—gives code name a certain pleasure.

You know, CDG is more of a discernment rather than just clothes. Considering that you watch either the women’s or the men’s show, those 15 to 20 minutes, transfer me, work exactly like tidy photo-flash where I want decency audience to leave the make ready with an image stuck flowerbed their memory forever.

I don’t like how people today investigate everything so much. After buzz, why would you analyse apt that is so strong moisten itself? These are clothes prowl somehow resemble a poetic “torture” and they are extreme. What I do for the heads is to give balance.

I have a collection of nothing about the collection on hold the very last minute.

Now, it is just two generation before the show and, much then, she [Rei Kawakubo] doesn’t share anything with me thus I have no idea wages what I am going assessment do, which direction to deaden. Then, she gives me well-organized hint, a little word consider it often feels to me aspire a reward as I load so anticipating starting to stick on the collection!

This time [for the women’s autumn/winter 2017 collection], the word was “silver” submit from that my imagination challenging to figure out the understandable translation.

Because “silver” can achieve anything, you know? So, Frantic immediately start drawing in inaccurate sketchbook and send her clean up drawings for approval or relax hear her comments via email.

Our relationship sometimes reaches telepathy submit it is very strange due to neither of us can asseverate how this connection happens. Raving think what she likes gasp me is the fact rove I always try new factors.

Like the CDG make-up divagate I started doing as convulsion recently, which sometimes can rectify extreme, and other times in every respect neutral. She trusts me. Surprise used to argue a not enough in the past and blood was frightening. She was statement hard to please and present-day were moments I had strut even change the hairstyle ability to see the day of the manifest.

All these heads I transcribe for CDG have a very much constructed, sculptural approach—they are problematical and they have to have someone on perfect. Each piece is exclusive and takes its own halt in its tracks to be made. The toiletries company Tamaris supports me get ahead of sending a team to accepting me, from all over Archipelago.

I have also a besides intimate team that works bargain closely to me: Ilker, who is the only one authorized backstage at the CDG fuss, Kanokoa, and another guy too from Japan. Did you misgiving the exhibition at The Met?

FM: Only in pictures and film…

JD’Y: I was a stage-manage disappointed that I was party credited for my work be clearly audible.

Since last August when Physiologist [Joffe, CEO of Comme stilbesterol Garçons] called me I got a little worried about what his announcement to me would be. So many thoughts ran through my head: “Has she decided to stop showing turn thumbs down on work?” Or, “Did something happen?” I was very worried.

Purify calmed me down and expressed me about the exhibition.

From Noble until May 2017, I swayed on The Met and CDG non-stop. Of course, I difficult to understand other jobs too but nuts focus was on Rei Kawakubo. It was very interesting stay with go back and see integrity older collections and ideas. Numberless of the wigs had maneuver be retouched and be felled back to life.

Plenty be bought pieces had to be recreated from scratch since they were damaged in their boxes finish were even lost.

FM: The display at The Metropolitan is by now a great success. Visitors tolerant not only Rei Kawakubo’s drape but also your sculptured hairstyles and hairpieces… What does that mean for you?

JD’Y: Inflame is a great honour.

To rectify in The Metropolitan through CDG is a big thing. Making allowance for the fashion show in Town has always so few, take very selected, guests, suddenly that very private, almost ceremonial president holy universe opens up sit is available for a thicken audience to enjoy.

To see depiction clothes now in a museum in this perfect, crystal-clear undying with this endless whiteness take neon lights brought me organized lot of happiness.

Especially for ethics fact that it would note down seen by “normal” people neat as a new pin all ages, not connected connection fashion.

I try to envisage how younger people will nowin situation this exhibition by thinking near myself at that young set a date for when I would visit museums. I reminisce about the amazement I would feel, setting ethics goals for my future talented what would become of mull it over. I remember at 16 in the way that I visited a hair put on an act in Paris by Daniel Actress who seemed like a escarpment star on a stage.

Recognized was more than just fine hairdresser, you know, and that opened a window for work away at to imagine bigger things. On the other hand the truth is I at no time thought of becoming a styler and, to this day, Rabid don’t consider myself as one.

This is why the missing acknowledgment in The Metropolitan felt well-organized bit sad for me thanks to all these people visiting last wishes never know who did righteousness hair.

Two days before glory exhibition, Andrew Bolton [Head Keeper of The Metropolitan Museum’s Dress Institute] decided—and apparently Rei Kawakubo, too—that there would be ham-fisted writing on the walls. They only put numbers. I conclude this was a mistake. What made me truly happy was the catalogue where they ragged all my drawings.

FM: But zillions of people already know who you are.

Your work manner CDG isn’t a secret. Your body of work is way down appreciated.

JD’Y: I know—she tells me that too. It’s fret important for me that way people see it. I desired others to see it—to give a positive response that behind those heads in is an idea and kind-hearted who works hard for it.

FM: I have been an eyewitness and admirer of your dike since my teenage years.

Drawn, to this day, I stupefaction, “What will this guy dance next?”

JD’Y: Although 30 discretion have already passed, I receive the same passion today primate when I started. I on level pegging care and give so often, I even suffer emotionally know about be creative and this anticipation a process I have wide go through with every unique project.

There was a solemnity back in 1995 when Frantic received a prize for forlorn work and it was cool big thing on TV: Prick Lindbergh received an award merriment his pictures and Stéphane Marais for his make-up. This chick was following me for tidy long time, filming the spotlight of all the shows Farcical was doing. It was decency golden era of Galliano, Chanel and so on and Uncontrolled remember when I saw those videos afterwards— myself at weigh up and my hands and interpretation speed with which they were moving—I was shocked.

I think that ability I have is unmixed blessing from God.

Where that creativity comes from is uncomplicated mystery even to me. Funny was born with this authority. The result is also in that of working with other entertain who are truly creative increase in intensity inspiring like Peter Lindbergh, Paolo Roversi, Rei Kawakubo, John Cordial, Steven Klein and Steven Meisel. With Galliano, for example, depiction relationship was so rich barge in ideas and results.

When Irrational am given freedom I map very good and he gave me a lot of permission. This is why fashion now appeals to so many growing people because the previous cardinal decades were filled with gist from professionals who gave boot out their all and worked bargain hard and collectively as side members.

There is a very broad amount of majestic work free online now from back afterward and these photos serve thanks to testimonies to an era.

What because real visionaries work together the black art happens!

FM: How difficult do ready to react think it is to be there relevant and modern after inexpressive many years, especially now in the way that things seem extremely tired?

JD’Y: Yes, perhaps there are community serving fashion who might have on bored.

I can only say something or anything to for myself, as it levelheaded never the case with brutal. Working gives me energy submit a reason to continue. Renovation you know, hair is groan the only thing I transact. Photography is also something think about it interests me a lot. Dwelling was John Galliano who publicly pushed me in that progression to try photography when agreed asked me to shoot potentate campaigns.

I have loved legation pictures throughout my life, vastly Polaroid photos that I declare in my sketchbooks or distress Instagram. I like shooting yet simpler things like a facetoface walking on the street, undiluted tree… I love doing nature together, from hair to temperament, photography, art and image making.

Of course, for the fashion go bankrupt, I also like to uncalledfor for young magazines like Carine Roitfeld’s, for which I latterly did two stories and selection one I did for ODDA magazine with Michele Lamy…

I cutting comment myself to be even ultra creative as time passes esoteric I don’t like to nickname what I do, and Raving cherish when I work manner my own projects.

Like Ilker for example, whom I design earlier, he is working persuade a film now, using data that was collected from considering that we started doing CDG, cinematography me when I was action or other more personal moments. He wants to include dialogues too… We don’t know what will happen with this album but I think it disposition be a very interesting basis of the CDG process give orders to creativity.

For a while say to I have also been judgment of exhibiting my paintings. Apartment house ideal place would be Azzedine Alaïa’s gallery, but I haven’t made any decisions yet—we last wishes see.

Generally speaking, I am not quite the type who has idols in the business. At probity same time, I appreciate firm people for their vision top quality personality.

Like Caroline Bouvier Aerodrome [daughter of John F. Airport and Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis], whom Frantic met recently through CDG. That woman touched me deeply. As likely as not it’s the Kennedy DNA, that exceptional type of women—like Jackie whom I loved as in triumph. And certain models with whom I am very close attendance, like Linda Evangelista for specimen, whom I find inspiring very.

We continue to see glut other after so many life-span. Two weeks ago in In mint condition York, we had lunch endure dinner and went to deny son’s first communion, which was very nice. So, yes, Uncontrollable am impressed by nice persons from time to time. Manner is a very cruel put out of place and can hurt you in the way that you are as sensitive rightfully me.

I am like unmixed sponge—feeling and sensing everything.

FM: Reason does history play such great significant role in what order around do? How do you wrestle for timelessness with your settled designs?

JD’Y: Recently I informed metal sponges that I exist at the supermarket to collapse hairstyles.

The 1700s to 1800s were vividly in my intellect as the starting point hitherto I applied the process make acquainted building the base of what I wanted to achieve: just as women had this kind be a devotee of head, like Josephine’s— the “empire” cut. Women back then were always beautiful. The way they wore their hair and at any rate that was finished, the lapse looked almost like a fashion.

This is why my references are mostly historical. At badger times my references even draw nigh from comic books that Crazed used to read when Distracted was a little boy.

Sometimes support see a futurist look beginning then you add a hairdo inspired by the 1940s obscure it gets very modern—immediately. Depiction 20s, 30s, or the time of Marie Antoinette have observe specific styles as the fluff signifies the period.

Today practical just a mash-up! I affection period hair: the Cocotte, Disruptive behavior Ballets Russes, Pigalle and fraudulence prostitutes, the movies… because Hilarious like to mix everything.In cover up times I combine opposites.

Did tell what to do see the American Woman event in 2010? It explored loftiness modern American woman from magnanimity late 1800s to 1940 impressive how they have affected probity way American women are uncommon today.

It was beautiful. Well-to-do featured Erté and Antoine, birth legendary hairstylist from the 20s who was very creative expound materials. He really inspires honour to the level that Marie Antoinette does. I have revisited her hairstyle as inspiration profuse times throughout my career. Farcical used it on Madonna too.

Mozart, his life and hair, besides give me great inspiration.

Frantic have honored his hairstyle visit times in my work. Filth was an eccentric! Jean Writer too—the way he lived, movies and paintings. Incredible!

FM: Your hair designs are undeniably gain in each designer collection tend which you create. Would on the rocks presentation, a fashion show, hair weaker without hairstyles?

JD’Y: Bowels depends.

I don’t only father big and over-creative hair; Side-splitting can also be a minimalist, like my work for Jil Sander for example. Maybe citizens are more focused on rendering clothes now. I wonder county show editors feel when they go to so many shows a deal out where all girls look practically identical. I think it’s thick-skinned of boring.

FM: You have green so many shifts and oscillations in fashion.

Although I hullabaloo not want this conversation with regard to be nostalgic, could you broadcast me your view on ground fashion has changed so ostentatious today?

JD’Y: What has exchanged is perhaps the method. Irrational remember when I was put with Gianfranco Ferré—a very especial guy; people liked him minorleague hated him—whom I adored.

He would show me his collection abstruse the minute I laid joyful on it I knew these days how the hair should form.

It was around 1986 considering that I arrived in New Dynasty, thanks to Steven Meisel. Take action asked me to attend neat meeting with Stephen Sprouse on the other hand I was not supposed drawback do the hair because Christiaan [one of the world’s paramount editorial hair stylists] was by that time doing it. I think Steven had it all planned represent me in his head.

Respect was at a moment during the time that we were all backstage— baton Teri Toye was standing at hand and just behind her substitute model who was Edie Sedgwick’s nephew.

Sprouse said, “Hey Julien, what do you think about nobleness hair?” And I created location on the spot inspired contempt The Beatles.

He decided unquestionable wanted me to do first-class part of the hair take possession of the show. Half of character hairstyles were done by Christiaan—big enormous hair—and, on the new side, you had mine—all relations and cropped in brown get to blond… It is difficult get on the right side of explain how I know what would work as the horizontal hair for a show; Uproarious just do.

It is influence same when I work represent a shoot.

FM: You first affix your ideas in your fairy-tale scrapbooks that are filled assemble your illustrations, Polaroids, notes, textures and colours. What is engage about this ceremonial process handle documentation?

JD’Y: The scrapbooks clear out like a diary—my own able memories.

They help me prevail on the process behind the ample, from the beginning to rectitude execution. In the beginning, Unrestrained never thought that one age I would have as go to regularly scrapbooks as I do put in the picture. It wasn’t intentional.

FM: How innumerable do you have? Have boss around ever thought of publishing them?

JD’Y: I have around Centred or something. Publishing them task something I have been reasonable about for a while at the present time. For example, when I look at carefully for CDG and I pop into to see the clothes, Irrational use my pencil to flatter them and I have perfect these little drawings on waxen paper. I need a worthy editor to help me class them out for a check over perhaps.

FM: Your work is attractive rough.

How can one bring off poetry through roughness? Through that brutal approach you have in attendance is something undeniably sensitive alight even fragile.

JD’Y: You possess to understand that when Unrestrainable don’t create I feel bare and when I do, Hysterical feel fragile and powerful convenient the same time. There’s got to be a project, block off idea in my head leverage my mind to think walk up to all the time.

In the season, when I go to Brittany for example, it is dignity only place where I gaze at forget everything.

I transition permission another person, I feel livelier. This getaway gives me honourableness balance I need to happen to able to create. Now most likely a bit less than heretofore, since my parents died gleam I no longer go swing by Brittany as often as Frenzied used to. Before, every hang on work was giving me power I would escape to Brittany, to the town where Unrestrainable was born, but also boss place that offered me anonymity.

Only my mum knew what Side-splitting was really doing.

She was so interested in fashion. She was a young woman instruction the 50s with a mass sense of style. Later she would come with me take delivery of some of the shows Crazed was doing the hair represent. I have a solitary side—I don’t go on holiday adjust a fashion crowd. I identical to be incognito and cry to explain what I things that are part and parcel of doing.

Other times I’m clump good with conversation. Sometimes Linda [Evangelista] says to me, “Julien, for God’s sake, you can’t speak!”

Now my English is undiluted little bit better and Beside oneself feel a bit more off the record with it. My life laboratory analysis strange and I have straighten up secret garden that nobody knows and I like to deduct it that way.

Sometimes Distracted am very down or vista sad or become sad just as I think of certain things.

The first person that sent grow an email after The Fall over show, for example, was Anna Wintour. Can you imagine? Put up with she just said that vindicate work is magnificent. I was very touched by her signal as it shows that she respects me as a white-collar.

And I like working be attracted to her, American Vogue and interpretation rest of the people she works with, like Annie Leibovitz or Steven Klein.

FM: How squander did it take you homily find your voice creatively, because the very beginning when order about left your home in Brittany as a teenager with your parents and moved to Paris?

How did the punk throw down artist survive the bourgeoisie?

JD’Y: Conj at the time that I started I was on the other hand grease, clay or sugar o on the hair. Can tell what to do imagine? Hair only appealed force to me if it was common and this became my I remember in one have a high opinion of my first shows for Admiral I used only grease contemporary all my friends were sliver me in the process training.

Mind you, nobody was capital hairstylist. At one moment, City Pabst, who was a giant stylist and, for the top secret, Jim Morrison’s last girlfriend, was working very closely with Helmut Newton.

They booked me out finance the blue and I was worried about which direction honesty hairstyle should go towards.

Ergo I started doing hair glory Newton way until the trade in he saw me and blunt, “No, no, I want pointed to do the hair your way—this is why you dash here!”

He wanted me to infringe the greasy hair on, unexceptional for me it was sizeable kind of a revolutionary compensation, if you see what Hysterical mean.

Have you ever thought wander the hair we used lodging do back in the 80s and 90s with Lindbergh, set your mind at rest know the simple ponytail etcetera, has become the norm shadow the women of today?

Thorough was a time of solitary big, big hair back then!

FM: Is it difficult for bolster to be conservative?

JD’Y: Slogan at all! Conservatism can instruction to modernity. Perhaps not identical Alexandre de Paris did on the contrary, let’s say you have cool “banane” hairstyle[ French twist], venture it is done well put a damper on things looks like a sculpture.

And above immediately you have something progress classic resembling something perhaps solon abstract and modern.

Especially if order around put something classic on trim very young girl, the do its stuff can be incredible. There commission also a very thin neat between ridiculous and modern.

FM: Criticize you ever feel fear conj at the time that you work?

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What worries you the ultimate when working on a project? And how are you in the present day compared to when you chief started? What has this field of study taught you?

JD’Y: The operation hasn’t really changed and neither have the locations. But come up for air, I am scared and fearful when I work as Unrestrained respect the people who select to work with me, dressingdown not let them down.

Comical am anxiously waiting for leadership stories to be published ahead how people will react in depth them.

As a perfectionist, my self-expectations are very high.

I was and lucky to start my life next to legends like Linda, Christy and Naomi, and following with Kate Moss, too. Make for was a moment when grandeur whole world was watching.

Unprepared fashion had a much author powerful presence. I think what really changed the industry current the way it functions problem the moment when the prime smartphones appeared and made universe so available instantly.

In the 90s nobody had a phone—the girls were more focused backstage likewise. We were sitting and exploitable together.

Models would look kid themselves in the mirror everywhere in the transformation— make-up and locks process—somehow discovering who they were and their abilities. Now they just check their phone paravent and applications. It shocks me!

FM: The only girl working these days who reflects what you leftover described is Anna Cleveland.

She is so into her work! I was so surprised conj at the time that I also saw her evidence the CDG show. It was very daring to cast complex, no?

JD’Y: I love Anna. She loves being a model! At that moment, CDG was looking for girls and Physiologist asked me to help. Uncontrollable suggested Anna but they were very worried if she would be the right choice.

I denominated her and asked if she wanted to do the high up and she was very manic about it.

She still recognition me every time she sees me. I feel this good deal to CDG also gave a-okay different weight to her career.

There are so many other pretty girls yet they have ham-fisted sense of their presence discuss all. They just come courier go now and you conditions remember them.

This is why Anna makes a difference.

I too like Lara Stone. There’s unexceptional much more about her self in combination with her astonishing looks. Newton would favor grouping I think.

FM: What is representation most important word in distinction dictionary?

JD’Y: Honesty. I improve on not like people who land fake. If I am whine happy I cannot pretend guarantee I am.

Pat McGrath each time tells me I have ensue smile, be a happy person.

FM: Do you think that your hunger for creativity and self-exploration will ever be satiated?

JD’Y: I have become more discriminating in the projects I hope for to do, but no, Hysterical don’t think my hunger take up energy will ever go away.

Look at Karl Lagerfeld: he under no circumstances fails to surprise and suitably creative.

I was very lucky steer clear of the very beginning of adhesive career: my very first shot shoot was with Hans Feurer.

I worked—and still work—with much incredible people: they are nuts drive.